Hello,i am a real newbie in CNC and need your Help.I have bought a China CNC 3040T from Amazon with 4 Axis and need to run that underMach3. The router comes with a USB Connection, but after some days the PlanetCNC Software ask me fora new License Key. After asking them i get no answer.So i have changed the Original cable which is from 25Pol printer Port to USB, to a normal Printerto Printer Port Cable.But i did not get any Axis running unter Mach3.Can you please Help a real Newbie?Thanks a LotMatthiasSimilar Threads:. New Here.
Europe. Hello,i am a real newbie in CNC and need your Help.I have bought a China CNC 3040T from Amazon with 4 Axis and need to run that underMach3. The router comes with a USB Connection, but after some days the PlanetCNC Software ask me fora new License Key.
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Hello,i am a real newbie in CNC and need your Help.I have bought a China CNC 3040T from Amazon with 4 Axis and need to run that underMach3. The router comes with a USB Connection, but after some days the PlanetCNC Software ask me fora new License Key. After asking them i get no answer.So i have changed the Original cable which is from 25Pol printer Port to USB, to a normal Printerto Printer Port Cable.But i did not get any Axis running unter Mach3.Can you please Help a real Newbie?Thanks a LotMatthiasHi mroschk, I too have just bought one of these machines but mine came with a standard USB cable and worked OK straight from the box, I don't know about the license yet as I have only had it 24 hours.
Usb Cnc Controller Mach3
I take it you did find the license key in an obscure chinese fileI have not as yet cut anything with it, just getting to know it at the moment, I don't think that you will get Mach 3 to run as it needs a parallel port I believe. I did find it ran OK from a laptop running Windows 10 so I may not need a dedicated computer just yet. Disadvantage is that there does not seem to be any info online about the board they are using, I would have liked to do one or two mods on it but without the info that is not easy.You could try uninstalling the software and reinstalling to see if that would get round the registration issue, but Chinese sellers are not the most reliable in the world if you have a difficult problem. Hi,i think inside the Black Eletronic Box is only a Board which translates the Parallel signal to an USB Signal.I Think this board will do / be the same then m Adapter. Try opening the Box and if possible you can deinstall the Boardand use the Parallel Cable.MatthiasPost some photos of what you have inside your box, the Plant cnc Board has a built in CPU and can only be used with there software, it seems like you have a Breakout board that has a parallel port as Mach3 won't run with a USB unless you have something like a UC100 or similar motion control connection. Hi,i (.) bought a hina CNC Router with ( maybe 9 a cracked board inside.It also seams it is only a MK board:-( but for me it is ok.So maybe if you have a original one it is possible that you can nit run it with Mach3.But something else.I am very much struggeling with the 4th axis.I try to reate a very easy round Zylinder with a Little pocket to test my router's 4th Axis.But as i have just a Little Knowledge in SolidCam ( not SolidWorks ) i am not able to manage to create the correct milling path.Can you help here?ThanksMatthias. Quick Navigation.
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Looking to add a small CNC machine to your garage or hackerspace’s arsenal of tools? Like any tools — China has you covered for the cheap options — but the question is, is it worth it? Typically it depends on the tool, but when to use USB instead of a parallel port with the TinyG motion controller most definitely!The 3040 or 3020 CNC router is a popular Chinese machine used by many hobbyists — and for good reason. A rigid all-aluminum frame, decent stepper motors and pretty good resolution? It’s not a bad deal for around $1000USD. We’ve covered it. Problem is, the electronics are a bit out-dated.
Particularly in the fact that it uses Mach3 with a parallel port Come on, who has a parallel port these days?John Lauer set out to fix this. The TinyG is a motor controller as well — it was just waiting to be fitted into a 3040 CNC in order to run a better control system, like!In fact, John ordered the CNC machine just to do this upgrade — and he’s sharing how he did it with everyone:And while you’re at it, why not to your 3040 CNC as well?
Or how about learning how to machine foam, and then.Posted in Tagged, Post navigation. Does tinyg support backlash compensation. Last I checked, it still doesn’t.
These CNC routers do have nice anti-backlash ballscrews but that doesn’t mean it has NO backlash. I still use Mach3 and linuxCNC which does have backlash comp. It’s nice to be able to dial out the last.001″ or so of backlash. There are plenty of USB motion controllers for mach3 that work really good if you don’t want to use a parallel port. All 4 of my CNC’s use the parallel port since it is cheap and very reliable. Add on parallel cards are under $20. Computers that run mach3/linuxcnc are cheap.
The last one was a Dell I bought off eBay for $25.Plus there are a few features I would hate to give up if using a machine controller like mach3/linuxcnc. They do support a few more gcode functions, easy to write custom macros and canned cycles such as peck drilling etc. Good 4th axis rotary and lathe support. The new linuxcnc 2.7 suppose to have a much better trajectory planner and can’t wait to test it out. I just think those who use tinyg and grbl for their CNC’s are missing out.
Let's convert an inexpensive Chinese CNC machine from Parallel Port to Arduino and GRBL.Alright guys, this is a culmination of weeks of reading, researching and determination. It's my first instructable so hope this helps get you where you need to go.A little bit of background, before we start:The 3020, 3040 and 6040 (and the more obscure 2015, 2016 and 2020) CNC router milling machines that come out of China are hugely popular in the hobbyist and professional circles. If you are a DIY type, these machine offer a great way to repeat processes and basically do some things that no hand tool will allow you to do. For the professionals, these machines with their relatively accurate leadscrew/ballscrew assemblies allow for another machine to be pumping away making parts if the machine machine is occupied with a job. All in all, these inexpensive machines (ranging from $600-2500 shipped DHL) are a great way to get into CNC. They can be found all over eBay and Aliexpress, in my experience, you can find marginally cheaper options on Aliexpress and their buyer protection is much better than eBay's.The model numbers denote the size of the workable area, ie.
The 3040 is 30cm x 40cm, the 6040 is 60cm x 40cm etc etc. The range of these models makes for choosing the right one for your shop pretty easy, the more expensive and larger ones (typically 3040 and 6040) will have the more accurate ball screw type linear movements instead of a typically trapezoidal lead screw. The 2015, 2016 and 3020 machines (some 3020 will have ballscrews) will have a nylon or Delrin type nut for linear travel.You can tell which model has the leadscrew or ballscrews by the letter after the model. 3040T will have 'trapezoidal leadscrews' and a 3040Z will have ballscrews (ballscrewz?):DI have experience with both the ball screw and lead screw type movements, for the money you are paying, it's better to get a machine with ball screws as they wear better and very little, if no backlash (side to side play) is present.
These machines will come setup with stepper motors and typically have cable tracks already built in, also they will come with a controller box.The controller box on almost all of these machines will come with a very old Mach 3 style Parallel Port interface. Signal pulses will be sent from the Mach 3 software to the port and that drives the motors and makes the CNC machine come alive. This type of system is old, dated and is Windows only.
I have been a Mac person since 2003 so I won't switching back to PC's anytime soon, so when I heard you could convert this to Arduino powered, I went from 'that CNC is a neat tool' to 'that CNC will be mine'. You'll see in the video that the conversion is complete, but when you crack open the box, you'll basically see three main components.1. The power source, this will either be a coil or in my case, a perforated metal box. It will have the main power leads coming from the inside. One set of DC wires will be connected to the driver board.2.
The driver board, you'll recognize this because the leads from the connection cables to the XYZ ports will be attached to this. If you had a board like my 3020, they will be super easy to undo since they are screw terminals. Just undo them and you can pull them out. The power leads from the power source should also be present, this also needs to be undone)3. The spindle VFD (Variable Frequency Driver), this maybe a closed box or an open circuit board. You'll recognize this since it will have a control board and dial to control the spindle speed.-If you forget the label the XYZ cables, don't worry, just follow them to the ports on the back and you can see which is which.
Usb Mac Controller Driver
The Arduino needs to be flashed with the most current version of GRBL. What does GRBL stand for? No idea, jury's still out.GRBL is an open source G-Code interpreter, it is to CNC machines as Marlin firmware is to 3D printers. You can find it here:Once you have GRBL on your Arduino, you can mount it into the case. BUT before you do that, you need to remove the old parallel port driver board. Don't throw it out, there are likely some awesome electronics components you can salvage from it. You've already undid the wires so this shouldn't be too hard.I had to mount my Arduino board first with a couple of screws (into the screw bosses from the old board) before attaching the CNC Shield.
The CNC Shield has spots for 4 driver chips. It accepts the A4988 or the DRV8825, the later being more powerful and able to accept up to 36volts and 1/32 microstepping.I only had A4988 available, so I went with those.Before installing the driver chips, you have to decide how many micro steps you want to have your machine run at. Rule of thumb is, the more micro steps, the smoother the motions, but lower the torque. Vice versa, the less micro steps, the more torque the stepper motors have.You have to use jumpers to set how many micro steps, I wanted 1/8 microsteps, which I believe is a good compromise between smooth motion and torque.To find out how to set this up:CNC Shield NOTE: I have a clone of the CNC Shield V3, so my jumper settings differed from those advertised on the Protoneer blog.
This could be an anomaly, or it could be a wide spread board mistake.NOTE: when installing the driver chips, make sure they are installed in the correct orientation. You can see on the board where the pins for the stepper motors and on the drivers chips you will see which set of pins need to be going towards the pins. Alternative, you can just look at the many many pictures of the CNC Shield online. Ok.so you've removed the XYZ cables from the old driver board, the Arduino and stuff is mounted.now you need to interface the old with the new.The XYZ cables will need Dupont female connectors to connect to the CNC Shield.
You can do this a few ways, the easiest way was to make up a female connector with leads that you can solder the old cables to. The cables will already be colour coded into pairs so try and keep them in the same orientation. It will be RED/RED and BLACK/BLACK, not Black/Red, Black/Red. Conventional electronics wisdom says so but this time its not.Stepper motors work 2 pairs of leads, this dictates the direction they push when a current is put through, if you find that the direction is reversed when you fire up the machine and jog around, its a simple matter of taking that axis lead on the board and turn it 180 degrees.
For my conversion, I have a dedicated USB cable that I put into the Arduino and it just simple comes out of the control box, I didn't bother positioning board so I can unplug it. This USB plug not only connects your computer to the Arduino, but it also powers it.The CNC Shield also needs power, this is to power the stepper motors. The power does not feed into the Arduino, so don't worry about frying it.
There should be a screw terminal to attach the lead from the power supply to the CNC Shield, do this.Once you've attached it, you can fire up your favourite GRBL controller software. Here's a quick mini tutorial on finding out the value to put into your GRBL settings for the correct amount steps for translating designs into the real world accurately.A typical stepper motor has 200 steps PER revolution. These are known as FULL steps or 1.8° per step.
This setting has the most torque and is the fastest, however not the smoothest.Most of these machines will list the kind and size of lead/ballscrew it has. On my 3020, the lead screw is 1404.14: 14mm diameter of the screw thread (OD)04: 4mm pitch (or the distance between threads)We are mostly concerned with the 04 number since it describes the amount of linear travel something connected to the lead screw will travel with ONE revolution. So a 1205 thread is 12mm diameter and 5mm thread size, so on and so forth. Hi, I was beginning to look into stepper motors some years ago, and used a couple off ebay, an old computer power supply for five volts, and built a box with a pair of microswitches, 90 degrees apart, a spindle in a bushing, with a flywheel, and a cam to trip each switch in turn. I hooked it to a terminal board, and was able to test my stepper motors, simply applying the 'digitized output' systematically to the leads of the stepper motors and had forward and reverse. To gain the same capacity with micro-steps, you'd have to include a board, whether 'woodpecker' or an Arduino set, which I would recommend the latter. You could also use a 555 timer ic, make a signal generator with square waves, and control its frequency with a pot, and by that, get your more controlled 'etch a sketch' mode working.
The 555, as an 8 pin, or 556, a double, in 14, easily makes all sorts of signal generators, and can be among the most useful of ic's for prototyping. Semper Fidelis, John McClain. Great Project!I've a problem with Z axis. I've Arduino and CNC Shield like in your Instructables. When I try to move the Z axis this remain stop, and the others motors make a noise.
The others motors work properly, and also the switch for relay.1. If I put the motor Z on the driver X or Y is OK. If I put the DRV8825 driver Z on CNC Shield pin X or T axis it's OK.3. If I put the X or Y motor in Z driver on CNC shield not work.a.
Wich kind of cnc shield do you have?b. Can I test the CNC shield?Thank's.
Iv'e got the same board and, everything works fine. Are you sure the stepper board is installed the right direction? The potentiometer should be at the bottom of the board. Maybe you put just that one in upside down? I got my board from china on ebay and, have not had an issue with it.
It is V3 red with protoneer website written on it. Maybe you guys need to check the solder joints on the bottom of your cnc shields z pins. And the capacitor on the z section.
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I'm sure all the boards don't go through a Quality Check. It may be your wires for the z axis are wrong.
Just throwing stuff out there. Its odd that two people have a problem with the same axis. Maybe you both do have bad boards.
My driver boards are the same as in the instructable.
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